The House

The main family house...

The "front room" of the family home.

The Mamallacta family lives in the main house, which was the first place we arrived when the bats flew out. The family often receives guests from many places around the world.

Centro de Yachana

"Welcome to Center of Yachana Kichwa Medicine"


The entrance of one of the cabins.


Our view from the cabin.

Another view of the cabins.

The family kitchen.

As the sun finally rose, we got to see our surroundings more clearly. The main house is surrounded by a small collection of separate buildings, including two kitchens and several guest cabins. The main yard has a circle drawn on the ground with a fire in the very center.

The Cabins

Rhonda looking out from the mosquito net.


The view from our cabin.

Lying on a board doesn't help my sleep any. I was okay with the bats, the darkness, the bugs, the loud jungle noises, but as I lay awake until the early morning hours, I missed my soft, warm bed at home. For just a little while, I felt like a spoiled American missing the comforts "civilized" life.

But then the sun finally unveiled the magnificence of the Amazon. In fact, the sunlight literally penetrated our little cabin through the bamboo slats and open air windows. We arose to see dense green vegetation surrounding us, filled with loud birds and butterflies. It was literally a paradise on Earth.

Thankfully, Rhonda was much happier in the morning. She also thought it was a paradise.

Archidona

The church in Archidona.

Another view of Archidona.

Our first meal in the Amazon: Bolon de Verde.

On Tuesday, we took the bus to Archidona, in the Amazonian province of Napo.

Travel to Archidona was very long and arduous, complicated by the fact that we left extremely late. Almost all the buses to Napo were full, so we finally had to go back to Quito to catch an empty bus in the terminal. Otherwise, we could have gone, but we would have had to stand for the duration of the five hour trip. This would have been especially difficult with Valentina's two young children who travelled with us.

The road to Napo is characterized by extreme contrasts. On the one hand, we witnessed breathtaking scenery unlike anything in Spokane. On the other hand, the road took many dangerous turns. Sometimes I held my breath thinking we would either crash into another bus, or fall off a cliff, especially when the driver started passing other vehicles around blind curves at uncomfortable speeds. Other times I marvelled at the beautiful mountains and waterfalls as we crossed the continental divide of the Andes Mountains.

We finally arrived in Archidona at around 8:00 in the evening. The sun had already set two hours earlier. We wandered through the streets for a while, trying to find our next contact. Valentina's friends met us at a street corner and invited us to take a light dinner.

We had a most interesting and different meal called bolon de verde (pictured above). As I understood their explanation, this food is made of green bananas or plantains that have been mashed to a pulp and then formed into a perfectly round ball. They fill the middle with cheese and then fry the entire ball in oil.

We also tried a couple delicious juices made from local fruits: guanabana and maracuya. I can't even begin to describe them, except that maracuya has a somewhat citrus flavor and guanabana reminds me somewhat of coconut, only sweeter. Nothing in English compares.

Then we took a taxi down a dark road outside of town.

After a brief trip through the darkness, the taxi stopped in a remote jungle area with no electric light or other signs of civilization; we saw only the black outline of palm trees projected against the moonlit sky. We all unloaded our bags and watched as the taxi lights drove away, leaving us in the night. I reached over to touch Rhonda's arm, and could feel her anxiety rising through her skin. She was none too pleased at that point.

Our guide was Elias Mamallacta. He walked at the head of the line wearing a small light on his head. Walking in a single file, we followed him up the hill, through the dense vegetation and tromping through mud. At one point Elias slipped and fell, which I'm sure did not inspire confidence in my poor wife.

After about twenty minutes, we arrived at a small opening in the forest where a tall house stood with a thatch roof and open walls. A small group of bats flew out from the house just as we arrived. Rhonda sat on the bench and closed her eyes tightly until a small dog approached and touched her hand with its nose. She screamed and I could only imagine the hatred she must have felt toward me in that moment for bringing her to such an isolated place.

I must admit we didn't know we were going to be in that kind of place. We honestly thought we might stay at a hotel with a swimming pool, because we were told to bring our swimming suits for the pool. We never imagined the pool was actually a river and our lodging was a guest hut near the main house. We finally lay down to sleep on board covered with a thin mat and a mosquito net. I only prayed Rhonda would feel better in the morning.

Tumbaco

The view from Valentina's house...


A church in Tumbaco...


Another view of the same church...


Across from the park in Tumbaco...


A street scene in Tumbaco...

Some time in the past, Tumbaco probably began as a separate town, but the massive urban expansion of Quito currently spills over into the surrounding valleys, swallowing everything in its path. Nowadays, Tumbaco behaves more like a suburb of Quito, or perhaps an extension. A sign marks the dividing line, but one city street flows into the next without interruption.

Valentina lives in Tumbaco with her family. We were fortunate to stay in her home.

Summary

Our adventure in Ecuador is coming to an end. We arrived in Quito early this morning after visiting many other places around the country. Tomorrow we fly home.

Unfortunately for the people back home, we have been unable to post photographs during most of our trip. Many places still lack basic services like electric lights or potable water. Internet connections are even more rare still. Hopefully, we will post more pictures today from Casa Sol Quito, or tomorrow from our hotel in Los Angeles.

Just to summarize briefly, we got to see many culturally significant places during our tour.

With Valentina as our guide, we took a five hour bus ride to Archidona, in the Ecuadorian Amazon. The Amazon is more beautiful and ecologically diverse than I ever imagined. We got acquainted with plants of all different kinds, many of them edible and even medicinal. We also visited the home of Casimiro Mamallacta, an indigenous shaman from the area. More on this later.

After visiting the jungle, we took a five hour bus ride back to Tumbaco, where we rested in the home of Valentina.

The following day, we continued to Otavalo, stopping to visit Edwin and Alex on the way. They were two of the youth who visited Spokane during this last spring. Their families received us with such grace, kindness, and abundance. Each family gave us a complete multi-course dinner, followed by laughter and friendship. The family of Alex even got us dressed up in traditional clothing from the region and took us out into the street to dance. Again, more on this later.

In Otavalo, we stayed at Casa Sol, which is even more magnificent than Casa Sol Quito. Photographs cannot convey the warmth and personality of that place.

We visited the traditional market in Otavalo, and had lunch with the family of Cesar Alvear. There we got to visit more youth from the Spokane exchange program: Flor, Victor, Santiago, Mariela, Maria Fernanda, and Markos de la Cruz. Once again, we enjoyed an over abundance of hospitality and friendship.

In the evening, we had a community meeting at Casa Sol Otavalo, where we got to share cultural expereinces with various leaders in the community. Afterwards, Marcos Lema, Oscar, and I bathed in the river below the sacred waterfall at Peguche as part of a ceremony.

On Sunday, we attended the LDS Church in Otavalo, and later visited the family of Santiago. They took us on a driving tour of the Ibarra region.

From there, we returned early this morning to Quito. I will post more as we are able to download the photographs.

Mitad del Mundo

This photograph is dedicated to my brother-in-law Paul.


Rhonda looking out from the monument at the Middle of the World.


Rhonda on the South, Barry on the North.


Barry on the South half of the world, Rhonda on the North.


Our feet at the equator... worlds apart?


Our guides for the day, Marcos and Saywa.

Marcos also took us to a place called Mitad del Mundo, Middle of the World. A monument marks the location of the equator, separating the northern half of the world from the southern half. Tourists from all over the world come to this place to photograph themselves with a foot on each hemisphere. We were no different.

Marcos told us during the visit that this is not the true middle. In fact, the true equator passes about 5 kilometers away, where an ancient ceremonial site marks the spot. The French and Spanish scientists who marked the center line ignored the old traditions. When GPS arrived, they found the old indigenous site had been correct. Marcos asked the tour guide about this. The young man was very polite, but became somewhat defensive. He acknowledged the truth of the indigenous site, but said both sites are correct. The equator "fluctuates," he said. Perhaps this is true.

No matter. We had a wonderful day. We enjoyed participating in the new tradition of standing at (or near) the Middle of the World.

Pululahua

Marcos took us to an amazing place called Pululahua Crater, which is the world's only inhabited volcanic crater. Of course, we hope the volcano is now extinct, for the sake of the people who live there. Despite the seeming danger of that place, we were impressed by the natural beauty. As we looked over the steep cliff, clouds descended upon us from the mountain peak. Such a striking and hauntingly beautiful place.

Quito

Our first day in Quito was amazing. We hardly slept on the flight to Ecuador, but the beautiful and vibrant city immediately lifted our spirits. We spent most of the day touring the city with Marcos and his family. These photographs represent a small portion of what we saw.

Plaza de la Independencia.

Iglesia San Francisco is the first church constructed by the Spaniards in colonial Ecuador. The interior is bedecked with golden images reminiscent of Ecuador's indigenous cultures.

Marcos took us to Restaurante Pim's, which has a magnificent view of the whole city. He spoiled us beyond anything we could possibly deserve.

Marcos and his wife.

Rhonda and I on Cerro Panecillo.

Kites on Cerro Panecillo.

Street scene in Quito. The old colonial city is filled with beautiful architecture.

Rhonda at Casa Sol, Marcos' hostel. If any of you choose to go to Ecuador, you should stay here. It is beautiful.

One of our first views of the city from the plane.

Ecuador

Wow! Rhonda and I are flying to Quito, Ecuador in less than two days! I'm so excited! Hopefully I will get the chance to post photographs during our trip. Stay tuned.

Huckleberry Heaven

Whitney and Rhonda picking huckleberries.

Huckleberries were more abundant this year.

More Huckleberries...

Foam Berries were also in abundance.

Saint John's Wort...

Rhonda, Whitney, and I went to pick huckleberries in one of our traditional mountains. It was a perfect day; the temperature was right, there were no bugs, and the berries were more abundant than previous years. We also found many foam berries, and Saint John's Wort. Whitney called the mountain "Huckleberry Heaven."

Sunset Whit

My daughter is as beautiful as ever in the warm glow of the sunset.

Vaccination

Our upcoming Ecuador trip is finally starting to feel REAL.

Rhonda and I went down to the Spokane Regional Health District this afternoon to update my travel vaccinations. I got injections for typhoid and yellow fever. Later, I will start a series of antibiotics to prevent malaria.

My wife is petrified of needles, and her fear is starting to affect me. Shots don't usually bother me, but today I laughed nervously through the whole appointment. I did manage to relax, however. The nurse had a very no-nonsense manner, and when she injected me, she moved so quickly I hardly even felt a prick. When I realized it had already ended, I looked up with a feeling of relief and said to the nurse, "Has anyone told you today they love you? Well I love you! Thanks for making this so painless."

The nurse had looked very serious throughout the appointment, but when I said I loved her, she laughed out loud and said she would have to start a journal just to record the event.

After the appointment, we went outside and Rhonda took a picture of me making a face. Of course, this is only for dramatic effect. It doesn't hurt at all, but I do feel slightly ill. We'll see how I feel tonight at work.

River View

Rhonda and I took a few minutes this afternoon to view the Spokane River from above. What a magnificent sight! The water looked so cool and clear in the hot summer sun. We also saw osprey diving into the river to catch fish for their chicks. One flew directly over us holding a trout in its talons. The fish was still alive wriggling its tail.

Sadly, we didn't get any good pictures of the wildlife.

Hiking

Butterfly on Teasel...


Whitney by the waterfalls.

McKenna by the waterfalls...

My feet fell in the water...

Going home on the hiking trails...

Mother Deer and her two babies...

Recently my wife and I took our daughters for a walk by the waterfalls. We all got to appreciate the beautiful sights of nature, like the butterflies and baby deer. I'm so glad they appreciate these things like I do.